Timing Belt, Water Pump, CPS and Crank Seal Replacement - 3.2 ATX Version
Thanks to John Gentry for this procedure :

When I decided to replace my water pump, CPS, and oil seal on my ‘93 ATX SHO I attempted to use Uday Kamath’s procedure.  However, I discovered that there were several differences from the 5- speed cars and I have covered these in this ATX procedure.  I have no idea how long it took me to do all of this because I worked on it in small blocks of time.  I would say that it takes quite a bit longer than the 5 - speed procedure due to the timing pulleys, timing pulley rear cover, alternator, and the idler pulley bracket removal.  I also took the time to scrub all of the parts that were removed with Simple Green cleaner to remove all the crud from my coolant and oil seal leak.  As you can tell I don’t get in a hurry because I enjoy working on my SHO.  Anyone attempting this procedure should also follow a shop manual such as a Helm or Chilton’s.  Use what I have done as a supplement only.

The tools and supplies I used: SHO3valvelash.html
 

Parts: I apologize for the photos.  You will notice that in some photos the new parts will appear before they have been removed in the procedure.  Not all of my photos turned out so I had to shoot the sequence in reverse.  I also used some of the tear down photos that turned out.  That’s why you will see a few where the parts are old then new again.
1) Drain the cooling system. Put the car on jack stands and remove the passengers side tire.
2) Remove the battery and battery tray. Use a 1/4" drive socket on the two inner 10 MM bolts in front of the alternator. There is also a 10 MM nut in the middle of the tray and a 13 MM nut on the top battery bracket. (This is a good time to paint your corroded tray.)
3) Use a 3/8" breaker bar with a 17 MM socket on the tensioner pulley. Push down to relieve the tension and remove the belt.
4) Disconnect the CPS from the harness. (Gray connector with the white wire next to it.) Two connectors: a larger gray one and a small connector that is black. Disconnect the DIS module connections. Remove the two 12 MM bolts and 7 MM hose clamps on the crossover tube.
5) Remove the crossover tube and plug the openings in the intake with shop towels so nothing gets in there.
6) Remove the 17 MM bolt and the accessory belt tensioner pulley. Then the two 14 MM bolts that hold the idler pulleys on their bracket next to the A/C compressor and alternator. Check the bearings in the pulleys and see if they spin freely. I had to replace my lower idler pulley due to the bearings being worn out. The pulleys cost about $80.00 to $100.00 each, but think what would happen if one locked up at 7,300 RPM.
7) Remove the power steering pump pulley using a 19 MM 3/8" drive socket on a breaker bar. Slip a large c clamp through one of the holes in the pulley to keep it from turning. Remove the 19 MM nut. The pulley will come off without a puller. (Mine did) Remove the water pump pulley.
8) Remove the accessory belt tensioner from the block after removing the 17 MM bolt. The spring is self contained and will not pop off under pressure.
9) Remove the eight 8 MM bolts on the upper timing belt cover. Remember that the two longest ones go in the middle above the water pump. Remove the cover.
10) Remove the middle timing belt cover. Two 8 MM bolts and one 10 MM.
11) Remove the four 14 MM bolts on the alternator. Two on bottom, one on top, and one in the rear. There is also a 10 MM nut on the rear for an electrical connection. Remove the electrical plug connector and then the alternator. (If you are contemplating pulleys this is the time to add them.)
12) Remove the passengers side front inner fender well cover. Three phillips head screws, five plastic retainers, and a 7 MM bolt head screw near the ground effects.
13) Remove the engine dampener pulley. Using a 1/2" drive 19 MM impact socket on a ratchet set the wrench handle on the subframe. Reconnect the battery. (Make sure that the DIS module is disconnected.) Bump the starter for less than half a second. I heard a loud chirp which did not sound good, but no damage to the starter or flywheel. The bolt should now be loose.
14) Line up the timing marks on the top of the timing belt with the marks pressed into the rear sheet metal cover. The most important things to look for are the dots on the timing pulleys. I had my local Ford dealer replace my timing belt two years ago before a long trip. When I opened up the timing cover I could see that they did not line up the marks on the belt with the TDC dots on the pulleys! (A reminder of why I do all my own work on my SHO...now.) This step is not important if you are replacing the CPS because you will have to remove the timing pulleys anyway. This only make it easier during reassembly if you are not replacing the CPS.
15) Now that the timing marks are lined up use a crankshaft dampener puller to remove the pulley.
16) Remove the lower timing belt cover.
17) Remove the tension from the timing belt by removing the outer (12 MM I think) bolt from the hydraulic tensioner. Then remove the inner bolt and remove the tensioner. Do not lose the little rubber wedge that goes between the oil pump housing and the tensioner. Then remove the timing belt guide and belt.
18) Place the hydraulic tensioner in a 4 1/2" vice to compress the piston in the tensioner. I had to use a two foot cheater bar to compress the little piston. (Don't let it slip out of the vice!) There is a hole in the piston and body so you can place a 1.5 MM allen wrench to hold the tension. Release the tensioner from the vice and set it aside.
19) Now for the fun part. Removing the timing belt pulleys. This will need to be done on the ATX beacuse the CPS harness will not fit behind the metal timing belt rear cover. You might get away with removing the left side pulley and rear cover bolts only, but I did not want to bend anything. Each pulley has three 10 MM bolts and a metal pin to secure them to the cams. The metal pins are loose so do not lose them when you remove the pulleys. The pulleys will turn as you remove the 10 MM bolts due to the spring pressure at TDC from twelve valve springs per head. Putting the pulleys back on and lining up TDC can be a real P.I.T.A. You will have to tighten the bolts up snug and use Loctite for safety. Then grab the pulleys and turn them like steering wheels until the TDC dots line align with the marks on the rear timing cover because they will move off TDC. Loctite may be overkill on the timing belt pulley bolts, but the thought of the pulleys coming loose at 7,300 RPM is unsettling to say the least!
20) Remove the rear timing cover bolts. There are seven 10 MM bolts holding the rear timing cover to the block. You can't remove the CPS harness and wire without at least removing the left side pulley and the bolts from the rear cover. Now remove the CPS wire and harness.
21) This step is exclusive to the ATX SHO.

Remove the accessory idler pulley bracket from the right hand side of the engine. This bracket has a timing belt idler pulley attached to it. (This would be difficult to remove with the alternator in place.) There are six 12 MM bolts so remember where the different lengths go. Remove the bracket and do not lose the rubber wedge that goes between the bracket and oil pump housing.
22) Remove the lower radiator hose from the inlet tube on the water pump. Plug the hose with a shop towel so no debris gets into your cooling system. Remove the four 12 MM bolts that secure the water pump to the block. Place a drain pan under the area of the water pump because there will be a gush of coolant when it is removed from the block. Remember that the bolt with the stud goes on the left side of the pump. This is so the CPS wire can attach to it during reassembly.
23) Remove the old o ring from the water bypass pipe.
24) Remove the water inlet pipe from the old water pump using a 5 MM allen head 3/8" drive socket. Install the pipe on the new water pump using a new gasket.
25) Remove the timing belt pulley using the same dampener puller. You will need to buy two metric 6.0MM/3.0 3 1/2" bolts. On the ATX SHO you do not have two timing cover bolts long enough to use for this purpose. (On page 24 of the fall 1998 SHO Registry they used two M5 x .8 x 90 MM bolts for this purpose.) So I guess both will work.
26) Remove the two phillips head screws that hold the CPS to the engine and remove the sensor.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver pry the old oil seal free from the oil pump housing. Mine took a lot of effort and prying before it came loose. Be very careful not to scratch the crank (I almost did) because it will always leak even with a new seal if you do.
28) This is a shot of everything removed down to the crank seal. This was the point when a friend of mine came by to see what I was doing and said "Can you get that back together?"
29) Push the new oil seal into its seat with your thumbs. You do not need an oil seal installer.
30) Re-install the new CPS sensor and set the gap between the sensor and the sensor ring to .03 with a feeler gauge.
31) This is something that I discovered when I re-installed my dampener pulley since I don't have air tools...yet. I used a large c clamp on the pulley and let it come in contact with the inner fender sheet metal to stop its rotation. This let me torque the bolt back to its spec. of 126 ft. lbs. according to my shop manual. (Be careful not to crush your front ABS sensor wire or brake line when the clamp rotates around to make contact with the inner fender sheet metal.)
Another tip:
During the replacement of the timing belt you will need to line up the timing marks on the crank. To do this I used the dampener pulley. I slid it on the crank and turned it by hand before the timing belt was installed. Then I would pull the pulley off to see if I got the marks lined up correctly. It takes a while a while but it works. (Remember you have an automatic transmission, you can't put your car in gear and turn the front tire to do this.

If you already had a timing belt installed you do not need any special tools to re-install the timing belt. All you need to do is bolt the hydraulic tensioner back to the block after the belt has been installed and then remove the 1.5 MM allen wrench holding the tension. If you are installing a new belt you will need the hydraulic belt setting tool and torque wrench adapter for a 1/4" drive inch pound torque wrench. Sorry mine was newer so you will have to review your shop manual. These tools will be included in any complete 60K service kit for the ATX SHO.