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<font color="red" size="+2" face="tahoma"><b><b>Alignment</b></font></b>

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        <td valign="center" valign="top">&nbsp; </td>
        <td valign="center" valign="top">An improperly aligned car can result in
        many undesirable driving and handling characteristics.
        Poor on center feel can be caused by toe-out or
        unbalanced caster. Improper alignment can also sharply
        reduce tire life and cause improper wear patterns.</td>
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        <td valign="center" valign="top"><h2><b>Front alignment</b></h2>
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        <td valign="center" valign="top"><p align="left">The SHO should be
        aligned with neutral toe (zero total toe) and as much
        caster (about +4 degrees is available) as possible. This
        may mean freeing the spot-welded camber plates and moving
        them to their most rearward position(s). Ideally, caster
        should be balanced side-to-side. Camber should be -0.5 to
        -1.0 degrees per side, also balanced side-to-side. Camber
        more than -1.0 degrees, will accelerate inside edge tread
        wear. You may find it difficult to get a shop to align to
        these specs, most won't change anything if it measures
        somewhere within the tolerance windows. A $20 'tip' to
        the alignment tech sometimes helps.</p>
        <p align="left">The Ford recommended way to free the
        camber plates is to drill out the spot welds with a
        special cutting tool that can be obtained from Speciality
        Products of Longmont, Colorado. Speciality Products is a
        major supplier of alignment kits and tools to the
        automotive alignment business. The spot weld drill is
        called the Taurus/Sable Rotor-bor, part # 85790. It is
        designed to drill out around the spot weld on the plate
        and leave the strut tower sheet metal untouched, which is
        important to maintaining the strength of the strut tower.
        It costs about $10. Speciality Products can be reached at
        800-525-6505.</p>
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        <td valign="center" valign="top"><h2><b>Rear alignment</b></h2>
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        <td valign="center" valign="top"><p align="left">Rear alignment for the
        street and for even tire wear: Camber, 0 to -0.25 degrees
        per side; even -0.5 degress will give some inside edge
        tire wear, especially on soft-compound performance tires.
        Toe, neutral to slightly toed-in, 1/32&quot; per side is
        good. The soft bushings in the rear tension struts tend
        to let the rear toe out when moving forward and during
        cornering, so some static rear toe-in gets you to neutral
        on the road. Make sure that the lock washers are
        installed in the bushings and the lock screws are
        installed after the alignment is complete, and that the
        bushing bolts are hand torqued to the spec supplied by
        Specialty Products. Otherwise, the bushings may slip out
        of position.</p>
        <p align="left">In '89-'92, the Taurus had only toe
        adjustment on the rear. This was accomplished by an
        eccentric on the rear control arm. Camber adjustment
        was added by TSB 93-1-2, which released a camber kit for
        the rear suspension. This kit uses some hard PVC
        eccentrics that replace the inner bushings on all 4 rear
        control arms. These allow up to a 2 degree camber change
        and a 1&quot; toe change per wheel.</p>
        <p align="left">The Ford part number is E7DZ-5K751-B.
        Specialty Products also makes the Taurus/Sable rear
        camber/toe eccentric kit, part # 87300. Cost is about
        $45. Sedans built after '92 already have this kit
        installed.</p>
        <p align="left">If the tech can't adjust camber and toe
        with the TRW pieces, then the original toe eccentric may
        be frozen from rust, in which case it will need to be
        replaced.</p>
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