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<font face="tahoma" color="red" size="+2"><b>
Brake Fluids&nbsp;
</b></font><hr WIDTH="100%"></font></b>
Thanks to Dave Zeckhausen :
<p>Lets look at what the DOT ratings mean.&nbsp; The table below shows
the MINIMUM wet and dry boiling points for DOT 2, 3, 4, and 5 brake fluid
in degrees fahrenheit.
<br>&nbsp;
<table cellpadding="3">
<tr>
<td valign="center"></td>

<td valign="center">DOT 2</td>

<td valign="center">DOT 3</td>

<td valign="center">DOT 4&nbsp;</td>

<td valign="center">DOT 5</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td valign="center">Dry Boiling point</td>

<td valign="center">374</td>

<td valign="center">401</td>

<td valign="center">446</td>

<td valign="center">500</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td valign="center">Wet boiling point</td>

<td valign="center"></td>

<td valign="center">284</td>

<td valign="center">311</td>

<td valign="center">356</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p>The DOT 2 spec is for drum brakes and is obsolete.&nbsp; If you have
any DOT 2 in your garage, throw it away!&nbsp; DOT 5 is for silicone brake
fluid.&nbsp; Silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) should be avoided because&nbsp;
it is not compatible with regular brake fluid, it is hard to pour&nbsp;
without introducing bubbles and thus results in soft pedal feel, and moisture
still gets into your system and will pool in low areas like your calipers
and encourage rapid corrosion.&nbsp; STAY AWAY!
<p>That leaves DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids.&nbsp; These fluids are compatible
with each other and may be interchanged or mixed with no ill effects.
<p>Let's look at some popular brake fluids and their boiling points:
<br>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;
<table cellpadding="3">
<tr>
<td valign="center">Fluid</td>

<td valign="center">DRY</td>

<td valign="center">WET</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td valign="center">Castrol LMA DOT&nbsp; 3/4</td>

<td valign="center">446</td>

<td valign="center">311</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td valign="center">Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3&nbsp;</td>

<td valign="center">550</td>

<td valign="center">290</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td valign="center">ATE Super Blue Racing</td>

<td valign="center">536</td>

<td valign="center">392</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td valign="center">ATE TYP 200</td>

<td valign="center">536</td>

<td valign="center">392</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td valign="center">Motul Racing 600</td>

<td valign="center">585</td>

<td valign="center">421</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td valign="center">Castrol SRF</td>

<td valign="center">590</td>

<td valign="center">518</td>
</tr>

<tr>
<td valign="center">Performance Friction</td>

<td valign="center">550</td>

<td valign="center">284</td>
</tr>
</table>

<p>Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your
brake system for a couple years.&nbsp; The LMA stands for "Low Moisture
Activity".&nbsp; This is the minimum quality stuff that I would use in
my Impala.&nbsp; It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long
shelf life.&nbsp; Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture
can make its way through the plastic containers.
<p>Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers
because of its excellent dry boiling point.&nbsp; It absorbs moisture quickly,
but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently.&nbsp;
Comes in metal cans so it may be stored.&nbsp; I would not use this in
my Impala for the street.
<p>ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two
different colors (blue and amber, respectively).&nbsp; BMW recommends this
brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs
moisture very slowly.&nbsp; The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much
better wet boiling point.&nbsp; You can put this stuff in your car and
forget about it for a long time.&nbsp; An excellent choice for a weekend
track car which also sees regular street duty.&nbsp; Comes in metal cans.&nbsp;
This is what I use in all my street cars.
<p>Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with
high wet and dry boiling points.&nbsp; I use this exclusively in my race
cars.&nbsp; Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing
due to its hygroscopic nature.&nbsp; Sold in plastic bottles. It is not
suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly.
<p>Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is
generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events.&nbsp; I've seen
prices of $78 per liter for this stuff.&nbsp; Sold in metal cans.&nbsp;
I can't afford this stuff!
<p>Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point
but a crummy wet boiling point.&nbsp; It comes in metal cans which is good
for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container.&nbsp; If you
are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy
Duty DOT 3.&nbsp; In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the
poor wet boiling point.
<p>
</b></font><hr WIDTH="100%">
<br><i>Thanks to Leigh Smith for the following information on the impact
of moisture content in brake fluid</i> :
<br>&nbsp;
<p><img SRC="pics/BrkFluid.jpg" height=382 width=408 align=LEFT>The amount
of moisture in brake fluid definitely affects its performance. The big
problem is it is absorbs moisture quickly. Over a relatively short period
of time brake fluid will absorb moisture from the air. SAE field tests
have shown that the average one year old car has 2% moisture in the fluid.
A random test of vehicles in the U.S. showed an average water content of
2.6% for vehicles with an average age of 8 years. And 25% of these vehicles
had water content greater than 4%.
<p>As water content in brake fluid increases over time, the boiling point
decreases. Fluid with a reduced boiling point (or high water content) can
create vapor by boiling in the caliper, or wheel cylinder. The result is
sudden brake failure. And water in the brake fluid can contribute to corrosion
of parts such as steel pistons and ABS modulators.
<p>The end result is even though DOT 3 fluid is "rated" at greater than
401<sup>o</sup>F, in the typical 3 to 4 year old car with 3 to 4% moisture
content, it could boil under 300<sup>o</sup>F. And if it has got more than
4% moisture, you may as well be running straight water!
<p>Moral: Flush your brake fluid every year or so. But only if you would
like it to work well scarcely an inch away from those toasty 500<sup>o</sup>F
rotors on your SHO during a couple of hard stops! Or would you rather have
a squishy pedal?
<p>Technical data courtesy of Leica Refractometers. www.leica-ead.com.
<p>
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