Thanks to John Gentry for this procedure :

As most of you know the stock fuel pumps that Ford put in the early Taurus line are rather weak and prone to failure. When I replaced mine at 75,000 miles I could tell a difference after I added the 155 lph (liter per hour) pump. That is only because my old pump was about to go out. Don't expect a new pump to add rocket thrust to your stock SHO. However, the higher volume pumps do become a factor as you modify your SHO such as by adding cams or a supercharger.

You will notice that I didn't take photos of every step in the procedure. That is because when I took the pictures a year ago I did not have any intention of writing up a fuel pump replacement procedure. Only use this procedure as a supplement to a shop manual such as a Helm or Chilton's.

I ordered my fuel pump kit from Doug Lewis of F.P.S. It came with a new 155 lph pump, fuel pump mounting gasket, clamps, hose, mesh sock and instructions. The day I did the procedure it was a windy day and I lost my instructions after I removed the first three bolts at the filler neck. So if you order the pump from F.P.S. put your instructions in a secure place and use your shop manual along with this procedure.

I dropped the tank and changed the pump by myself without any help. I strongly suggest that you get a friend to help you especially if you need to drop the tank like I did. It took me about 3.5 to 4 hours to change out the pump and reinstall the tank. It would have gone a lot faster (about 2 hours) if I didn't have to drop the tank and had help. Have fun!

These are the tools that I used:

10 MM 3/8" socket
13 MM 1/2" socket for tank strap bolts
5/16" 3/8" socket for fill hose connections (if you need to drop the tank)
2 1/2 foot hollow metal pipe to fit over ratchet handle to use as a cheater bar. (The handle from a large floor jack will work)
Long flat head screwdriver
Masking tape to mark fuel lines
Large floor jack
Wheel chocks for front tires
Heavy duty jack stands
Fuel pressure gauge with relief valve
Gasoline siphon with 5 gallon fuel can (only if you have too much gas in the tank)
Dremel tool with a small cutting wheel

The parts needed:

1 - 155 lph fuel pump kit with new gasket, sock, hose and fittings.
2 - Plastic hairpin clips for the fuel line couplings. This is a backup if you break them during removal.

1 - Disconnect the battery's negative terminal and make sure your gas tank is below 1/8th of a tank.
2 - Relieve the fuel pressure from the system at the fuel rail by attaching the gauge at the Shrader valve. (This will have a plastic cap on it and look similar to a valve stem cap on a tire).
3 - Place the rear of the vehicle up on jack stands as high as you can safely lift it.
4 - Remove the gas cap.
5 - Remove the three 10 MM bolts from the fuel filler neck.

6 - Remove the 10 MM bolt that holds the metal filler line to the frame.
7 - Remove the 13 MM bolt that holds the tank strap on the passengers side. (Mine was so rusty that I had to use a cheater bar and a lot of Liquid Wrench).

8 - Support the gas tank with a large floor jack. Then drop it down 6' to 8" to gain access to the fuel pump assembly, electical connection, and fuel lines.

9 - Remove the plastic hairpin retaining clips from the fuel lines with a flat bladed screwdriver and then disconnect the lines from the pump assembly. (You can use the plastic clips during reassembly if they don't break) Mark the different fuel lines with masking tape and a pen to aid during reassembly.
10 - Disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel pump.
11 - With a screwdriver tap on the retainer ring tabs using a hammer until the ring breaks free of the mounting surface. If it won't budge you will have to drop the entire tank like I did.
12 - Remove the retainer ring.
13 - Gently remove the fuel pump assembly out of the tank. Be careful and do not force anything. If you bend the sender arm your gas gauge will not ever read correctly. Carefully lift the assembly from the tank when you find the right angle so it is not in a bind as you remove it.

14 - Now that the fuel pump assembly has been removed lay it down on some shop towels and note the orientation of the parts. Remove the two wires on the pump and remember where they go for the new pump.
15 - Grab the metal ring support at the bottom of the assembly and gently bend it down as you attempt to free the pump. Once the bottom of the pump is free pull down to remove it from the upper tubing. You will remove and reuse the rubber bushing at the bottom of the old pump.
16 - The new pump is slightly longer than the old pump. You will need to trim about 1/2" off of the metal tube that attaches the new section of black tubing to the new fuel pump. (This is the metal tube in the center of the fuel pump assembly plate). Use a small cutoff wheel or hacksaw to do this. You don't have much room to make the cut so be careful not to cut anything else!