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<font color="red" size="+2" face="tahoma"><b><b>Modifying Brakes</b></font></b>

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<p align="left">If you do a lot of driving in the twisties or on
the track, the stock brakes may fade or otherwise lose
effectiveness. Basically, brakes fade when they get hot from
repeated use. And under severe use, the DOT3 brake fluid can boil
and become useless.</p>

<p align="left">Stock pads are semi-metallic. Other pads
available thru specialty shops include 'carbon-metallic',
'carbon-kevlar', 'cool-carbon', and racing compounds. These all
claim more fade resistance. Warning: these harder pads may not be
suitable for cold weather. My [Scott Chan's] carbon-metallic pads
take noticably longer to stop when cold. I would not want to try
them on a cold Rocky Mountain morning.</p>

<p align="left">The stock brake fluid is DOT3. There are
DOT3/DOT4 fluids available which have a 27F higher boiling point.
Silicone DOT5 fluid has even higher boiling point, but is not
compatible with ABS. [Ed: Some silicone brake fluids exist which
do not carry DOT approval; these are for racing only and for
liability reasons should *not* be used on a street legal car.]</p>

<p align="left">Cooling ducts from the fog-lamp mount to the
caliper have been used with success on other street cars.</p>

<p align="left">There is a $1300 kit which includes bigger
rotors, calipers, and pads. Only fits stock suspensions with
16&quot; wheels or bigger. See Super Ford mag June 94.</p>

<p align="left">Special warning for Baer brakes owners 4/19/96
(thanks David Zeckhausen):</p>

<p align="left">There are two serious errors in the instructions
which may lead to sudden catastrophic brake failure.</p>

<p align="left">In step 8, the instructions state that the (4)
caliper bolts (supplied by Baer Racing) should be torqued to 110
ft-lbs. The correct torque spec is 65 ft-lbs. The included bolts
typically fail at 120 ft-lbs. I was lucky and had one of the
heads shear off while I was tightening it. (I didn't feel very
lucky at the time!) When I called Baer Racing, they asked me to
send the &quot;defective&quot; bolt back. It was only when I was
explaining what happened that they realized there was a typo in
the instructions which had been fixed on their computer but had
not made it into their master instruction book. They immediately
sent me 4 new bolts and hardened washers and asked me to replace
all of them.</p>

<p align="left">In step 12, the instructions state that the
stainless brake lines supplied by Baer Racing should be
ty-wrapped to the tab on the front shock. If you do this, the
normal motion of the suspension will cause the tie-wrap to tear
out and the hose will be kinked. The kinked hose could eventually
rupture leading to loss of brake pressure.</p>

<p align="left">If you followed these instructions, please
contact Baer Racing immediately. They will ship you 4 new caliper
bolts and washers and if your front brake lines are kinked, theyu
will send you new ones.</p>

<p align="left">Finally, ignore the maintenance procedures
printed on the last page of the instructions. Those procedures
only apply to the Mustang spindles.</p>

<p align="left">Despite these problems, the folks at Baer Racing
have been very supportive and the new brakes are fantastic.</p>

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