In practical passenger car terms, Cresentini and Ruiz noted that warpage is mainly a function of brake mass. "The beefier the rotor, the more peak heat it can absorb without problems." "Cross-drilling or slotting the rotors helps, but only incrementally, and will not prevent the typical problematic rotor from warping." "Turning a warped rotor will bring it back to true, but this reduces its mass so it will warp more quickly next time." "Vented rotors are good," Ruiz says, "but restricting (not closing) the vent holes with extra material has proven a good trade. The extra material makes the rotor more rigid as well as more massive."

"There is no real substitute for proper pad bedding, especially with carbon pads. Pad material transfer can be of a real concern when carbon pads and iron rotors are paired. The trick with carbon pads is to bed the brakes in properly, which transfers an even film of carbon onto the rotors iron surface. If hard braking is tried too soon, carbon smudges form on the rotor surface, forming spots of high friction, localized hot spots, pulsing pedal,... and eventually leading to warped rotors."   Hal Baer of Baer Racing Brakes

"Braking sooner is the best way to keep your rotors straight and warp free." Tom Wilson, Road & Track
"Let your rotors cool off before parking. Driving hard, and then parking the car and letting the rotors cool off while parked, causes many warped rotors. Either drive around for a minute, drive less agressively, buy bigger rotors, or use cryo-treated rotors to solve this type of warping problem."  Larry Narcus, Carbotech